West New Britain
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West New Britain › Barkcloth

Chapter 6 · Cloth

Barkcloth in West New Britain: tapa, masks and festivals

Across the Pacific, cloth is made not by weaving but by beating. The inner bark of the paper mulberry is stripped, soaked, then pounded on a log with a grooved wooden beater until the fibres spread and knit into a soft sheet.

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From tree to cloth

The work starts with young paper mulberry trees. The inner bark is peeled away in long strips, soaked in water, then beaten on a smooth log. The grooves of the beater spread the fibres wider and wider until they knit into a sheet. Pieces can be joined by beating them together, then painted or printed with natural colours, often red-brown and black.

The tree itself travelled here with people: paper mulberry was carried across the Pacific by the ancestors of the Lapita voyagers.

Cloth that honours the dead

In West New Britain, the Nakanai people used barkcloth in the ceremonies that honour the dead: to cover funeral masks, and to wrap the bones of relatives before they were kept among the family's wealth. Next door in East New Britain, the Baining build giant barkcloth masks for their night fire dances.

Festivals to see

Masks and dances return every year at festivals across the province, including the Maola Ulu Mask Festival on Bali in the Vitu Islands, Balala in East Nakanai, Bakovi at Talasea and Aulu Nakamutmut at Gloucester. Dates change from year to year, so check locally.

Questions and answers

What is barkcloth?

Barkcloth, or tapa, is cloth made by soaking and beating the inner bark of trees such as the paper mulberry until the fibres form a sheet.

How was barkcloth used in West New Britain?

The Nakanai used it in mortuary ceremonies, to cover funeral masks and to wrap the bones of relatives.

Which festivals show masks and dances?

The Maola Ulu Mask Festival on Bali in the Vitu Islands, Balala in East Nakanai, Bakovi at Talasea and Aulu Nakamutmut at Gloucester.

Plan a trip

The best way to see West New Britain's reefs, islands and coast is aboard one of the few liveaboards that sail from Walindi on Kimbe Bay. Trips usually run seven to ten nights and visit Kimbe Bay, the Fathers Reefs and the Witu Islands.

MV FeBrina

A 22-metre boutique liveaboard with room for about ten to twelve guests, sailing from Walindi on Kimbe Bay since 1991.

See dates and prices →

MV Oceania

A 27-metre catamaran for up to 16 guests, in service since 2019, with cabins that each have their own bathroom.

See dates and prices →
See all Kimbe Bay liveaboards

Dates, prices and boats change. Always confirm details with the operator before booking.

Sources

  1. Penn Museum: the pageant of death in Nakanai
  2. University of Glasgow: tapa in Melanesia
  3. PLOS One: paper mulberry barkcloth from Oceania
  4. PNG Tourism Promotion Authority